Reproduction 1890s Goldiplaid Dress
Reproduction 1890s Goldiplaid Dress
1890s style dress worn at Rossom House in Phoenix March 2022 with day bodice and to Costume College 2023 with ballgown bodice and fairy wings.
Rossom House in Phoenix March 2022
Ran into a quincenera
Day Bodice
Gold plaid dupioni silk with black polyester lining has big
puffed sleeves, gold silk collar, and black soutache trim
on collars, back, and front.
Pattern: McCall's M7732 size 14 bust, 16 waist with McCall's size 14 oversleeve Modifications include:
- Shortened undersleeve sleeves 3" (1.5" below elbow and 1.5" above elbow")
- Shortened oversleeve 1/4" and cut straight instead of in for placket.
- Used iron on interfacing instead of sew in. Added iron on interfacing under back soutache.
- Did not cover armscye edges. Zigzagged.
- Rotated sleeve in armscye
Contruction Notes
- Construction is baglined. Not sure when baglining started; used to flatlining Victorian bodices. Hem with lining ease reminds me of modern suit contruction.
- Back soutache pattern is wrong, puts soutache under collar. Adjust so start of soutache is about 4" from top of back bodice edge.
- Front inset is a bitch. Also, remember that the front inset has a 5/8" hem allowance and the sides have a 1" hem allowance so the join seams should not match up even on the bottom edge. Inset will be higher.
- Sleeve and collar soutache pattern placements are really close to the seam lines and may not account for that 1/8" inch or so lost to seam bulk when turning. May want to adjust pattern slightly away from the seam. I ended up making the seam allowance about 1/2" on those corners so that I didn't sew on the soutache.
- Check the sleeve in the armscye. I ended up changing because it was pulling the arms back. Might be because of modern slump. My underarm back seam ended up matching with one of the back seams and that's not what it looks like on designer Angela Clayton's version.
Evening Bodice
Gold silk plaid dupioni ballgown bodice with front closures and soutache appliqued on back. Puffed sleeves.
Pattern Truly Victorian TV490 – 1892 Ball Gown Bodice
Skirt
Gold silk dupioni plaid skirt with hook and eye back opening.
Lining in black cotton polyester blend.
Pattern: McCall's M8231 16 waist 18 hips Modifications include:
- Adding hidden side pockets
- Shortened hem
Bodice Blouse
Purple silk blouse with self tie. This is a separate blouse instead of part of the bodice
Pattern: McCall's M7732
Belt
Black belt
Hat
Black velveteen and deep purple silk hat with net and artificial flowers.
Pattern: Butterick B6397 - Misses' Hats in Four Style. View D
Fairy Wings
Fairy wings made from a workshop by Sahrye Cohen
Day Dress Completed: March 2022
Ball Gown Bodice Completed: July 2023
Tags: #1890s #dress