1887 Red Stripe Bustle Dress

18th century, 1887 Red Stripe Bustle Dress made for GBACG Bustles at the Beach event July 2009. Inspiration was from an 1887 fashion plate seaside print.

Group photos taken by Kevin O'Hare on the digitgraphic:

[20090711]

Was a three hour drive from Sacramento, but worth the trip for a fun day on the beach and great photo opportunities. Finished making my dress into wearable form this morning after having to rip out and redo a sleeve. Bodice is missing some trim and could use boning. After looking at photos, the hat wasn't tilted down at a rakish angle as instructed (sorry, !), but stayed on well in the breeze. Cate and I had lunchy snacks on the drive over and then just had luscious desserts for our picnic, and fast food on the drive back. Less things to pack and carry to the beach. Can't wait to see the group photo that should be on other GBACG members' cameras.

More photos here:
www.flickr.com/photos/7181690@N03/sets/72157621183705191/

Inspiration

Le Journal des Demoiselles 1887 fashion plate, left view.

Chemisette

White cotton, button front, with lace and tucks.
Modern blouse with sleeves cut short and upper collar cut off.

Bustle

White cotton sateen with 1/2" metal boning in and black grossgrain ribbon ties.

Pattern: Laughing Moon

Petticoat

White sheet base with cotton sateen ruffles edged with poly beige ribbons, white grossgrain drawstring. Six gored skirt with gores in back and back sides lengthened up top to accommodate bustle. Ruffles down back and along bottom.

Bodice

Red and white striped bodice (bolt said cotton, feels like poly cotton shirting blend) on flatlined on white linen. Three quarter sleeves, V neck with collar.

Pattern based on: 1887 fashion plate, Le Journal des Demoiselles. Drew pattern on dress form and then made fittings on actual garment.

Underskirt

Embroidered white linen underskirt with hidden back side pockets gathered into set in waistband with hook and eye closure.

Pattern: 5 gore skirt pattern used to make six gores with the back and side backs lengthed at the top.

Overskirt

Red and white striped overskirt draped/pleated and sewn onto red satin waistband with hook and eye closure.

Pattern: Front based on 1887 fashion plate from Le Journal des Demoiselles. Since not enough fabric to make drape on back of fashion plate, draped similar to Truly Victorian 1886 back view. Two lengths of fabric draped on dressform before sewing onto waistband.

Tall Hat

Buckram hat base covered with red silk, rolled brim, black and white striped silk hat band, black and white feathers, black ribbon and buckle decoration.

Made by Lynne Taylor.

Bustle Time Underestimation

[20090709] Won't be the last time. I thought I would be able to finish up the petticoat and the skirt tonight, but have only finished the petticoat. Used 5-gore skirt pattern as a base, shortening the hem by 2" and adding a 6th gore, added more to the top of the back and back side gores to go over bustle. Used old sheet for the gores and new cotton sateen for the ruffles, poly beige lace trim. Grossgrain ribbon drawstring. Didn't notice until later that the sheet is more worn than I thought and so added a few patches. Hope it doesn't fall apart.

Laughing Moon bustle is missing the hoop wire caps and the ends look like they are going to break through the fabric.

Completed: July 2009