1830s Reproduction Plum Day Dress

Train

Reproduction 1830s Day Dress worn to a picnic in 2019, was made initially for a holiday/winter Dickens Fair event in 2018.
1830s Reproduction Plum Day Dress at GBACG Picnic 2019
And big twin bonnets

Inspiration

Early 1830s fashion plates

Detail and back views of this dress from the V&A: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O117715/day-dress-and-unknown/

http://www.connerprairie.org/education-research/indiana-history/clothing-in-the-1800s-1

Plum Day Dress

Maroon plum cotton print day dress has piping, hidden side pockets, gigot aka "imbecile" sleeves with netting shorter sleeve inside, back hook and eye closure...
Pattern: Truly Victorian #455 using their sizing methods.

Adjustment for slope back on back and shoulder seams.
Front taken in a little.
Back bodice Size F with E neckline.
Front bodice size E.
Bodice shortened 1.5"
Draped the front different than the package and did not drape the back.
Flat lined instead of bag lining the bodice.
Hook and eye tape for back closure.

Finished measurements:
Bust:
Waist:

Buckle slide from EnsemblesOfThePast Etsy shop.

20181124 Was done enough to wear to Dickens Fair. Both dresses ended up having the top few hooks and eyes keep undoing throughout the day until we put a safety pin on the top so needs a hidden button loop or something.

20181113 Looks done, but needs fitting and fixes.

20181022 Getting closer. Draped the front bodice, added piping, and sleeves.

[20181019] Even with the second mock up things were not quite right. So, the side seams were taking in a little on each lower edge, the top back seam and shoulder seams taken in for slope adjustment, and the front taken in which moves the darts closer to the right placement since they were off to the side.

Next step will be to rip out the basting and make piping and figure out how to drape the overlay. Also trying to decide whether there is a sneaky way to do the back bertha like pleats in one piece and have it hook closed on the shoulder to avoid bulky back seam closures. Before I finish the neck, may take a look at fashion plates to see if neckline should be adjusted.

Belt

Gold plate over brass reproduction belt buckle with ribbon belt.
Buckle purchased from EnsemblesOfthePast on Etsy.

Pelerine

Matching pelerine

Fur Boa Tippet

Faux fur boa tippet

Boa to wrap around neck to knees 112"? 8" 7" 2 lengths with seam in back

Fur Muff

Pattern

Lady Detalle muff (16x20 18 x26) 12x20 insides 14 x26
Fur 18.5 x 27
lining 15 x 27
Pockets 6 3/8 x 13.5

[20181006] Finished stuffing and finishing one standard sized pillow for the mister so that I could justify using some of the down remainder for the insides of the muff. Ripping out the seams of the comforter and finishing that pillow took hours more than the simple project I thought it would be.

Found and im-big-inated the muff from the Lady Detalle's How to Create a Reproduction Late 18th Century Muff. I was trying to create something between the ginormous Regency muffs and the more sensible 19th century muffs. Faux fur, dupioni silk lining, bed sheet inner quilt filled with down (since not sure the silk would hold the down). Center handle and pockets in the inner muff. Fur cover has brown silk dupioni lining and is folded over 1.5" to make a ribbon casing. Fur seam towards the body and ribbon casing openings at the bottom.

Down filled quilted part. Down is so squishable that it totally compressed into the silk lining made earlier. Crappy machine quilting since this bit won't be seen. Wanted some quilting so the down wouldn't all settle to the bottom.

Here it is in the lining with corners tacked through the quilt part and handle. Hidden pockets were put under the quilted bit.

Top sewn. Can kind of see the side pocket on the right. Might need a flap and button for storage or when muff goes vertical, contents will fall out.

As soon as I emerged from sewing, Ben was very keen on attacking the furry beast.

The muff looks larger in the photos, so ended up closer to ginormous Regency. The muff is incredibly warm with the faux fur and down. Might have to take it ice skating or somewhere cold if Dickens is balmy, again, this year.

Bonnet

Buckram and wire bonnet covered with black silk dupioni.
Pattern by Lynne Taylor

Day Cap

Collar

Chemisette

Bloggy Bits

[20181005] Here is my illustrious drawings for my 1830s day dress:

Dress - with cross over front. I kind of want to make it front opening, but that could be a mistake.
Bonnet - big possibly with less interior flair because day cap should provide fluff.
Fur boa tippet
Pelerine - most likely in matching fabric
Fichu or chemisette/dickey
Collar - would be ridiculous to almost ruff
Day cap - either the giant big framing type with ribbons or the ones that cover up giant hair bump
Opt. Muff - with hidden interior pockets for storage and hidden handle
Matching bracelets - because looks like matching bracelets or cuffs in fashion plates. Definitely in matched pairs. May need further inspection.
Gloves - this should probably go higher up on list. Haven't checked to see whether gloves are still the slouchy loosey goosey gloves of the earlier Regency period or if they're slim fit.
11: Edit: Belt - how could I forget and where to find a tall and narrow belt buckle?

And in my head, I make two of these, so that I can ensure that I will have, at least, one person to join me in case every one else who raved about 1830s Dickens Fair drops out.

Started: October 2018