Reproduction 1820s blue silk dress with Van Dyke points (triangle trim) first worn to PEERS Le Bal des Vampires
November 2017. For my first foray into 1820s, it has the high waist just above the natural waist, lower than the
earlier empire era. The dress has elaborate hem trim with piping and the skirt has some shaping in the front with
a rectangular panel in the back with more gathers.
Images from extant gowns, fashion plates, and portraits many with elaborate hem trim and Van Dyke points.
A couple of extant cobalt blue dresses from 1820s, one from the North Carolina History Museum (search 1824 dress - has more photos) and one from August Auction site. Originally seen on
Pinterest so I did not realize the second gown also was of figured silk.
Blue lightweight silk dupioni dress trimmed with sea green silk dupioni and silk sheer was worn over a corset and bodiced petticoat. Sleeves lined with silk organdy. Bodice lined with white linen/rayon cotton lawn. The dress has piped neckline and plain hem trim Van Dyke points or saw tooth trim, cartridge pleated in back, piped belt, piped neckline with drawstring, corded hem, corded hem trim, pleated puff sleeves.
High bust: 38"
High waist: 33-34"
Shoulder to hem (front:back): 51.5" : ~53"
High waist to hem (front:back): 38" : 40"
Hem circumference: 113"
Pattern: An amalgamation of Arnold, Janet "Pattern of Fashion 1: Englishwomen's dresses and their construction c. 1660-1860" Drama Publishers, 1977, pp. 56-59. and bodice/sleeve base from Nancy Farris-Thee Butterick B6074 Empire Waist Dresses, Jacket, Purse and Hat Trim and Truly Victorian TV455 1830's Romantic Era Dress.
I could have made the dress an inch or two shorter for balls/dancing. Other things that may need adjusting:
Besides creating a giant Pinterest board and looking at the Janet Arnold book, I hadn't done much of a textual search for 1820s. So, after creating the dress, I found that there is already some good information online.