Reproduction 1820s Blue Dress

Costumes > Reproduction 1820s Blue Dress

Reproduction 1820s blue silk dress with Van Dyke points (triangle trim) first worn to PEERS Le Bal des Vampires November 2017. For my first foray into 1820s, it has the high waist just above the natural waist, lower than the earlier empire era. The dress has elaborate hem trim with piping and the skirt has some shaping in the front with a rectangular panel in the back with more gathers.

Inspiration

Images from extant gowns, fashion plates, and portraits many with elaborate hem trim and Van Dyke points. A couple of extant cobalt blue dresses from 1820s, one from the North Carolina History Museum (search 1824 dress - has more photos) and one from August Auction site. Originally seen on Pinterest so I did not realize the second gown also was of figured silk.

Dress

Blue lightweight silk dupioni dress trimmed with sea green silk dupioni and silk sheer was worn over a corset and bodiced petticoat. Sleeves lined with silk organdy. Bodice lined with white linen/rayon cotton lawn. The dress has piped neckline and plain hem trim Van Dyke points or saw tooth trim, cartridge pleated in back, piped belt, piped neckline with drawstring, corded hem, corded hem trim, pleated puff sleeves.

Finished measurements
High bust: 38"
High waist: 33-34"
Shoulder to hem (front:back): 51.5" : ~53"
High waist to hem (front:back): 38" : 40"
Hem circumference: 113"

Pattern: An amalgamation of Arnold, Janet "Pattern of Fashion 1: Englishwomen's dresses and their construction c. 1660-1860" Drama Publishers, 1977, pp. 56-59. and bodice/sleeve base from Nancy Farris-Thee Butterick B6074 Empire Waist Dresses, Jacket, Purse and Hat Trim and Truly Victorian TV455 1830's Romantic Era Dress.

Hem Trim

Cartridge Pleats

Notes and Todo

I could have made the dress an inch or two shorter for balls/dancing. Other things that may need adjusting:

• Small bustle pad to floof out the back gathers.
• Back hook and eyes. Drawstring along made it hard to close and so the back top pulled apart/gaped open.
• New corset: A corset is needed to separate and lift the breasts up higher and the bodiced petticoat wasn't providing enough support. The Mantua Maker corset I made had a large gap in the back. I used coutil, a 15" ruler for busk, and caning for light boning. Not sure it was laced correctly, but it bent and crumpled in very uncomfortable ways. So, I would like one that closes more in the back and retains its shape.
• Hair pieces. Possibly some of the hair and ribbon loops. Preferably ready to go and boxed with the dress.
• Ball slipper shoes. Possibly covered with figured silk from Renaissance Fabrics

1820s Goals

• Long gloves that slip down to the elbows. See fashion plates where gloves look like they are loose rather than smooth.
• Reticule large enough for 3.5" x 6.5" phones or cameras and maybe a fan
• Cape with collar and hoodie like in fashion plates
• Double bracelets like in fashion plates. As well as research for necklace, etc.
• Fan?

1820s Resources

Besides creating a giant Pinterest board and looking at the Janet Arnold book, I hadn't done much of a textual search for 1820s. So, after creating the dress, I found that there is already some good information online.

• Mimi Matthews The 1820s in Fashionable Gowns: A Visual Guide to the Decade
• Hope Greenberg It's All in the Details: Gowns
• Van Dyke Points or Saw Tooth Trim in Regency Clothes
• Wikipedia
• Pinterest 1820s
• Pinterest 1820s capes and outerwear

Completed: November 2017 (approx 3 days and a couple evenings)